Category Archives: Gearbox

01E Flanges

Gearbox, GT40

The 01E gearbox that I (and a number of other GT40 builders) are using has a number of different driveshaft flanges depending on the original car it was fitted to.

These can be distinguished by the part number cast into them, this will be 01E409355 and optionally a letter. I’ve found details of A,C,F,H,J & K. If anyone has any details of any others it would be appreciated if you drop me a comment.

These same flanges are also fitted to other cars in the VAG stable, for example I’ve been informed the ‘A’ flanges are fitted to the Skoda Fabia (and the 01E itself can be found in the Skoda Superb).

The following table I found and copied from here http://www.audivw.ru/vagprice_1333.html

01E409355 Flange shaft 108MM
Audi 80 Avant RS2 quattro Audi V8 Audi 100 / Avant quattro Audi 80/90 / Avant quattro Audi 100 / Avant quattro Audi Coupe quattro Audi A6 / S6 / Avant quattro Audi 80/90 / Avant quattro Audi Coupe quattro Audi A6 / S6 / Avant quattro Audi S6 plus quattro Audi A6 / S6 / Avant quattro Audi A4 / S4 / Avant qu. Audi A4 / S4 / Avant qu. Audi RS4 Avant qu. Audi A6 / S6 / Avant qu. Audi A6 / Avant
01E409355A Flange shaft 100MM
Audi 100 / Avant Audi 100 / Avant Audi 100 / Avant Audi A8 Audi A8 / S8 quattro Audi A6 / Avant Audi A6 / Avant Audi A6 / S6 / Avant quattro Audi A6 / Avant Audi A4 / Avant Audi A4 / S4 / Avant qu. Audi A4 / Avant Audi A4 / S4 / Avant qu. Audi A8 Audi A8 / S8 quattro Audi A6 / Avant Audi A6 / S6 / Avant qu. Audi A6 / Avant
01E409355C Flange shaft 130MM
Audi A8
01E409355F Flange shaft 75.5MM
Audi A4 / Avant
01E409355H Flange shaft 88MM
Audi A6 allroad qu. Audi A4 / Avant Audi A4 / S4 Cabrio./qu
01E409355J Shaft with flange G 01 03 3 >> * 108MM
Audi A6 / Avant
01E409355K Shaft with flange G 06 08 1 >> 100MM
Audi A4 / Avant Audi A4 / S4 / Avant qu. Audi A4 / Avant Audi A8 Audi A8 / S8 quattro Audi A6 / Avant Audi A4 / S4 Cabrio./qu

Most of the diesel 01E boxes will come with the 100mm flanges, that 100mm is the inner diameter, the OD of the flange is 130mm. These are typically fitted with a tripod type inner joint rather than a Rzeppa type CV joint.  A tripod type is meant to be more efficient however they aren’t as tolerant of extreme angles.  A Rzeppa type CV will typically do up to 45°–48° of articulation, while some can give 54°.  A Tripod type however will only do up to about 26°.

Audi/Skoda will only sell you an entire drive shaft however while you can get the inner joints (eg https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/skoda-superb-2.5-diesel-2002/product/cv-joints-510/cv-joint/JR398 ) I’ve decided to swap out the flanges and fit Rzeppa type inner CV’s. This is somewhat problematic as these are rocking horse poo, very expensive S/H (NLA new although some have some NOS) and would have come to more than I paid for my gearbox!

Thankfully however a friend took a trip round a local scrappy and had a look at all the Audi etc diffs he could find and pulling all the flanges. After some searching he found a ” 01R525053E” which has the desirable 108mm diameter CV Joints (PCD 94mm) as used by the S4 (for which you can get the CV joints for) and these are dirt cheap s/h.

These are slightly different in size however appear to fit perfectly.

We’ve yet to try them in anger so this is untested however it appears to be a cheap solution to the flange problem.

Obvious disclaimer that you try this at your own risk, this advice is worth what you paid for it and any modifications should be checked by a qualified engineer before being used.

 

Flywheel

Engine, Gearbox, GT40

I found someone who did a 1UZ-FE to BMW flywheel, as it’s the same diameter as the 01E clutch I was planning to use, with some measurements I figured it should work and save having to make my own.

I obviously need a pressure plate but that should be straightforward.

Now the only question is over the clutch disc. Do I go for sprung (noting obviously that this *actual* clutch plate is dead and I’d need a new one)

Or unsprung (brand new clutch plate but only cost me £10 so I’m not too concerned about throwing it away).

My thoughts are that it should be sprung, on the basis that in the original fitment for the unsprung disc the car was fitted with a DMF which would have been sprung and the RS4/S4 etc are sprung (as well I believe still fitted with a DMF).

 

 

Gearchange part 2 (the mechanism)

Controls, Gearbox, GT40

So, with the gearlever in place it was time to think about how things would get from the lever to the gearbox. A bit of a play with some bar seemed to indicate a rod shift was just possible.

Albeit mightily tight

So I made up a bracket with a bush and welded it to the chassis

Now, I just needed to work out how to get it the rod here (the pointy ended one) link through to the other side of the gearbox.

That can wait until the gearbox is back in however.

 

Gearchange part 1 (the lever)

Controls, Gearbox, GT40, Interior

In an original GT40 the lever sits on the right sill. This was largely “because race car” but for valid engineering reasons as well.

At first I was going to put in a centre shift because I’m used to a centre shift but then I thought about it some more and reconsidered. I looked at a number of options, mostly cable actuated.

Then one of the group of builders said he was going to get a replica of the original gear-lever setup made…

So this needed mounting. Much sitting in the car was done before selecting the position where the lever “felt” best. Far enough from the wheel to not be in the way but close enough to enable a short reach to change gear. Roughly as well where the originals sat.

I welded in some square tube on to the chassis with some rivnuts to bolt it to.

These then have holes drilled large enough for the rivnut flange in the side panel so that the gearchange sits flush against the side panel.

 

Engine adapter plate

Engine, Gearbox, Uncategorized

The engine to gearbox adapter plate turned up at the w/e

Along with the oil-take off plate/block

So despite the sub zero temperature in the garage I had to at least try out the adapter on the engine (the gearbox will have to wait until the snow has gone!)

So put it on and shock horror, it didn’t fit…. it hit the flexplate/starter gear.

After a second of panic, thought “hmmm, is there a spacer”, checked the manual and yep one spacer, so off with the flexplate, remove the spacer and try again. Now it fits (although I need a another dowel as one was missing).

I guessed that the starter will have to be moved back an equal amount and Doug confirmed it, he also mentioned that the starter motor bolts will have to be shaved to fit. Still, have lathe, will modify! 🙂

Next job is to get some M12 bolts (I believe to make matters more awkward they are fine thread) along with some studding and I can mount it properly and attach the gearbox. Plus I need to make up a new dowel.

Random updates

Engine, Gearbox, GT40, Interior

While I haven’t done much (mostly due to Christmas) I’ve done a lot more planning and a bit of ordering.

I’ve ordered my engine to gearbox adapter (I’ll have one spare for sale, leave a comment if interested).
I also found out the rear wheel centre line and measured things up, I think the engine will need to go forwards 3cm from its current position.

I’m not going to bother with the flywheel and clutch yet, no point. I’ll get them sorted when I’m nearer to being able to get it mobile!

The 1UZ-FE oil filter sticks out the side and would end up in the side of the chassis, I need an adapter to mount it elsewhere. It’d also be nice to have an oil cooler. Thankfully the oil filter is an assembly that bolts onto the side of the engine, there is a nice simple fitting on the side of the oil pump that can take a plate and some oil-lines.
So to get the dimensions I took off the filter assembly (alone with oil->water cooler) and stuck it along with a ruler onto my scanner. Then scan it, copy the picture into CAD and trace it. That was the easy bit.
The tricky bit was working out what fittings I could fit. They need to be as large as possible (to prevent restrictions) yet the fittings are rather close together. The issue being not the threads but the size of the nuts to do them up! I eventually finished on M16x1.5 aka M16 fine. I’ll probably go for a M16 to AN-10 fitting.

As an update to one of my previous posts I’ve found out the tacho can be adapted via dip switches to be altered to various modes, no adapter required! 🙂